Settle Down and Impulse Control

Prerequisites

1. Your dog needs to know the Down and preferably the Place verbal commands.

2. Your dog needs to also know how to turn off Leash Pressure by going back into a down position. If you are using an E-Collar they need to already be conditioned and know how to turn that pressure off.

3. You should understand how the Implied Stay works and how to use your “Nope” markers and spatial/leash pressure. Your dog should have somewhat of an understanding that they need to stay in the commanded position until they hear the release word.

4. Your dog should be able to take food/treats calmly.

Does your dog know “Down?” Yes? Do they know “Down” for 4 hours? No? That’s what we are helping them learn, to keep doing it when they don’t want to. You may go through spurts of temper tantrums from your dog the first couple days, stay calm and consistent!

Steps

1. Long Down-Stay

1. Start Off: Begin by telling your dog to "Down," and if you want, they can do it on their favorite bed.

2. Transition from Continuous Rewards: You're at a stage where you don't have to give treats all the time. Hold off on food rewards until your dog settles in comfortably.

3. Keep an Eye Out: Watch your dog closely. When you see them relax, like rolling their hips over or chilling out with their head down or sighing contentedly, that's your cue they are giving in.

4. Reward Time: Reward them with a little handful of their food to reinforce the good behavior of relaxing.

5. Correction for Breaking Position: If your dog decides to get up too soon, say "Nope" and gently guide them back down using the leash.

6. Intermittent Feeding: Over the next 45-60 minutes, occasionally offer them some food as long as they stay calm and relaxed.

2. Introduce Distractions

As you work on extending your dog's long down-stays, it's essential to incorporate distractions and triggers gradually. It's advisable to wait until your dog has fully committed to staying down before introducing these distractions. You may introduce distractions a day or two or five once you started this exercise. It’s up to you when you think they have a grasp of staying in the long down-stay. Here's a step-by-step approach:

1. Identify Potential Distractions: Begin by creating a comprehensive list of noises and stimuli you believe your dog may react to. This list could include items like car drives by, car doors, the mailman, knocking, phone ringing, fireworks, the sound of people's footsteps, keys jingling, talking, and the presence of other dogs.

2. Progressive Introduction: Introduce these triggers and noises one at a time, starting with milder triggers or low-intensity versions of more significant distractions. The goal is to gauge your dog's response without overwhelming them.

3. Observation and Reward: As you introduce each trigger, closely monitor your dog's behavior. If they maintain their down-stay and do not react to the distraction, reward them with another handful of kibble or a treat. This reinforces their ability to stay focused despite external stimuli.

4. Correction for Breaking Position: Should your dog break their down-stay position when faced with a distraction, employ a verbal marker like "Nope." Subsequently, gently apply leash pressure downward to guide them back into the down position. However, refrain from offering any rewards in this scenario.

5. Evaluate Tolerance: If your dog repeatedly breaks their down-stay after 3-6 attempts with a particular trigger or stimulus, it's a sign that this distraction might be too challenging for them to handle at the moment. Consider reducing the intensity of the trigger or switch to a lower-level distraction that your dog can handle more successfully.

   By following these steps and progressively introducing distractions and triggers while reinforcing their down-stay, you can help your dog build resilience and self-control in the face of various stimuli.

3. Move Away

1. Initial Moves: Take a few steps away from their spot. You can say "Good" and casually return to hand them a treat or handful of kibble as long as they remain calm.

2. Correction for Breaking Position: Should your dog break their down-stay position when faced with a distraction, employ a verbal marker like "Nope." Subsequently, gently apply leash pressure downward to guide them back into the down position. However, refrain from offering any rewards in this scenario.

3. Baby Steps: When you resume moving around, don't go too far and reward more frequently. Make it easier for them to stay calm.

4. Up the Ante: As you gradually increase your movement, start doing everyday activities like grabbing items, sitting on furniture, chatting, or moving briskly. Help your dog get accustomed to staying relaxed while you go about your usual business.

5. Reward for Calm: Remember to reward them for staying calm after each significant move. Did you pick up the remote and place it back? Say "Good" and walk over to provide a reward.

4. Introduce Alone Time

1. Settling In: Instruct your dog to down on their bed or in their kennel.

2. Cue and Approach: Say "Be right back" and start walking towards the door.

3. Positive Reinforcement: Upon reaching the door, say "good" and return calmly to reward your dog for staying calm. If they are not calm, assist them in settling and consider revisiting Step 3.

4. Gradual Progression: Repeat the process of walking to the door and saying "Be right back" a couple of times before opening the door. Open and close the door multiple times before actually walking through it. Continue to return each time to reward your dog for maintaining their composure while you leave their line of sight.

5. Monitor and Adjust: At this stage, you should be ready to close the door. Using a camera can be valuable to observe their response. If your dog reacts negatively, like jumping up, panting, whining, crying, or barking, take note of the duration you were gone when these behaviors started. Avoid leaving for that long in the next session or two.

6. Varied Durations: As you progress, slowly increase the time you spend on the other side of the door. Mix it up; sometimes, you're gone for just a second, then five, then two, then six, and so on. Don't make it progressively harder; instead, vary the duration.

7. Calm Reentry: When you return, a simple "Hi dog" suffices, and calmly reward them if they are still relaxed. If they're excited, wait for them to calm down or help them settle before offering a reward.

8. Full Departure: Over time, you'll build up to walking away from the door, opening/closing your car door, starting your car, and eventually driving away.

   With these cohesive steps, your dog will learn to handle your departures with increasing ease and confidence.