Come - Recall
This is a formal command to have the dog come to you and sit-stay. Being able to call your dog to you is one of the most important commands to learn.
You can also teach a less strict recall that I call a Change Direction cue. It has the dog come check in with you and if you are moving, continue in your direction. It’s best to teach both.
Recall Rules
This command is sacred! There needs to be zero failure to comply. Use it wisely!
Every recall must be a successful one. You only say “Come” once and then you must enforce it. Do not use this formal recall if you’re not sure if they will come and you can’t enforce it (with a leash). Instead use an informal recall like their name or “Over here buddy, come on pal”. They don’t need to obey informal recalls and you don’t need to enforce them.
Never use recall and then follow it up with something unpleasant like nail clipping or scolding. Always be super excited when they get to you.
Videos
How to Teach “Come”
Steps
Phase 1 - Acquisition (Learning and Luring)
You’ll be using both hands in front of you and close to your body and low. One hand will have a lot of treats and the other hand will be the delivery hand.
Start by getting your dog to sit in front of you looking up. (not commanded, just lured into position).
Get them looking up at you from right in front of you and mark and reward a few times. Building engagement.
Then we’ll start doing the backwards follow. With your hands over your chest, lower them down and start walking backwards and lure and reward the dog for following along. Reward from up against your body/legs, you want your dog as close to you as possible. Continually reward. You don’t have to use your markers here but you can. When they eat a treat out of your hand use your other hand with lots of treats to drop a new one into your empty hand and let them eat that. Repeat until they have no problem following you as you move backwards.
Now you’ll start building the auto-sit when you come to a stop. Continue to do the backwards follow and when you come to a stop lift your hands up slowly, luring them to a sit front position. Mark and reward them for sitting with multiple rewards and then release with “OK.”
Continue to present your hand in front of your legs, step back a few steps, dog follows lure, reward continually, then stop moving and start to raise your hands up so the dog stays centered on you and performs a sit. Mark and reward and release.
Fade out feeding treats as you move backwards to only rewarding them after they sit when you come to a stop. If they sit too far away or need help simply lower your hands and back up a little, this is simply resetting to help them figure it out.
When they start moving after you lower your hand and sit in front of you when you stop then you are ready to advance.
Phase 2 - Automatic (Motivation)
Adding the command: Starting in front of your dog like before, say “Come” THEN lower hands and start walking backwards again with your hands low just like in Step 7. After a few steps, stop and raise your hand to get them into the sit. Mark and reward and release. Multiple rewards help this become a valuable task!
Once they are responding to the verbal command, you can take a step back to create some space. Repeat step 1. Everything has the same order of operations, you’re just adding in a little distance between you and your dog.
Continue creating more distance. You may need to go back a step or create less space. You can also move backwards quickly to create some speed and fun for the dog.
The dog should be coming when called with little to no hand signals from you now. Continue to increase your distance from where you are in relation to the dog before giving the command. Also start asking them to come when they aren’t paying attention to you. Always move backwards.
At this point the dog should know the verbal command “Come” so if you say it once and they don’t come after a second or so then say your non-reinforcement marker “Nope” THEN apply gentle leash pressure towards you. Once they start moving in the right direction, release the leash pressure and encourage them to keep coming. If you find you need to use the leash more than once, then go back to a shorter distance and reintroduce your hand cues.
Once your dog is responding to “Come” without the need of hand signals or leash pressure in a low distraction environment every time then you can move onto Phase 3.
*Always have your dog come to you after you say the command once. Always reward. Always release them after.
Phase 3 - Generalization (Distractions)
Practice Phase 1 and 2 in new areas. Ensuring that you reinforce the command every time.
Start practicing with a longer leash and when your dog is distracted. Most recalls are going to be used when your dog isn’t just sitting in front of you waiting for you to tell them something.
Practice with a partner distracting them by either petting them or holding treats.
With your dog on a long leash and a harness, throw a toy away from you. As they are running to get it, say “Come”, if they don’t change their direction say “Nope” and then turn on leash pressure. Remove the leash pressure when they start coming back to you and encourage them to keep coming. Reward them when they sit in front of you. Do this randomly and not a bunch in a row, the dog will catch on and stop running towards the toy, meaning you can’t get anymore distraction training in.
Practice this on walks and when they notice something like another dog or squirrel.
Tips & Tricks
More Rewards for Recall
I always reward more for Recall, instead of 1 treat I will give 3 or 4 or 2 or 5. I want this to be the one command they love more than anything else because it predicts more treats that vary in quantity.
Feed one treat at a time, not all at once as your dog doesn’t register 5 treats in a clump in your hand as being more, but if you give each one individually they’ll be like “wow, I just keep getting more, I must have done something good!”
This should be a higher value treat than you use for other commands for the first couple weeks.
Be Exciting
One reason a lot of people struggle with recall is that they are just too boring. If your dog is playing with other dogs and you say “Come” and just stand there they are going to choose to do the more exciting thing.
Be exciting, move backward, and be oh so happy that they came and sat in front of you. Being close to you should always be more fun and rewarding than any other option.
Multiple Recalls
If you are at the dog park or some place fun for the dog make sure you practice your recall multiple times during their free time, rewarding and releasing them after they come.
This way when you do the final recall to end the fun it isn’t a pattern where recall means the fun is ending since more often than not it just means come and get a reward then go back to playing.
Early Release
To make it fun for the dog, when you recall them, release them when they are halfway to you by saying your terminal marker “Free” and then throw a toy or treats behind you.
Do this randomly and less than your normal finish to the command. We want the dog to think there might be a chance that this time they get released early and get to play with a toy. This should increase their speed and desire to come to you.
Restrained Recall
Practice this step with a partner: Have your partner hold your dog back while you make a bunch of fun noise and entice them to come to you.
The dog should be squirmy and wiggly trying to break free to come play with you.
Say “Come” and then your partner releases their hold and the dog should be coming full speed at you. Guide them into the front sit position if needed, mark, reward, release.
Release After
For the first few weeks that every time you use the recall command you release your dog after.
If you make them keep doing commands after the recall they are going to see recall predicting more work, but if they see recall predicting “come get a bunch of treats and then go back to doing whatever you want” they are going to be more motivated to want to come every time they hear that sound.
This is using the Premack Principle.
Food Throw Recall Game
Toss a treat away from you (short toss). You can say “Get It” or some variation before tossing. Immediately start running backwards the other way.
Once the dog is eating the treat you can use the formal recall “Come” or “pup pup pup” or something if they are still young and you aren’t at the formal command stage.
They should come running back to you since you are still moving backwards, when they get to you feed them multiple rewards in front of you slowing to stop.
Safety Recall
It can be helpful to create a safety recall as well. Use a word or sound that you would never use normally, “Flamingo” or a dog whistle for example.
Use a super high value reward that you will only use for this safety recall and never for anything else. I personally use hot dogs.
Say your safety word/sound and then call your dog over to you, run backwards and when they get to you (they don’t have to sit) mark and reward with plenty of high value rewards.
Once they start responding to the safety recall cue then you can start hiding in different rooms of your house and having your dog find you after you call them.
When you take this outside you can hide behind trees so they have to seek you out.
Use this safety recall sparingly and only when you have the high value rewards. They should turn on a dime when they hear and come looking for you. It’s also helpful for when you can’t see you dog, hence why you had them search you out by hiding in rooms/behind trees.
Week 1 Homework
Practice Phase 1 (Luring/Learning) and Phase 2 (Naming) every day 1-3x a day.
Practice all week in areas with few distractions, vary the time of day and location.
Make this a fun game that your dog loves to play, be sure to use the same cue/command every time, keep sessions short, and don’t call your dog if they are too far away (pick your battles).
Remember the value in moving away from your dog after you call, and reinforcing with praise the instant they turn towards you and then mark and rewarding with multiple treats when they sit in front of you.
Week 2 Homework
Keep working on making coming when called a fun thing for your dog to do. Scatter “come” games throughout the day, from different spots in your home.
Try adding in chase games or releasing them early while tossing treats or toys behind you so they run past.
Try your hardest to not repeat the command if your dog doesn’t respond. Instead, go to them and show them a treat in your hand, call them again from much closer and reinforce them for getting it right.
Praise the instant they move towards you and treat when they sit in front of you. Avoid annoying things like head pats.
Week 3 Homework
This week begin to call them from farther away, maybe 10-20 feet away.
Avoid repeating yourself if they don’t respond. Go to them, lure them in the right direction, then treat and praise and try again. Or if you have them on a leash you can start introducing the “Nope” marker and gentle leash pressure when they fail to come when called.
Week 4 Homework
Continue the previous homework tasks again this week. Slowly increasing distance and distractions.
Week 5 Homework
You will continue practicing the previous tasks as well as the tasks from Tips & Tricks section.
Continue to increase your distance. You will need to use a long leash.
Scatter these throughout the week and think of it as a trick as much as anything else.
You can make practicing anything as fun as any activity if you are enthusiastic and playful.
Week 6 Homework
Keep making this a fun game for your dog. Remember to move away after you call.
Concentrate on only saying “Come” once and then helping them with luring/leash pressure if needed.
Start playing “hide and seek” and see if your dog is able to find you behind a door, tree, car, etc.
Find opportunities to increase distractions. If they are walking at a brisk pace towards a bush call them and see if they are more than happy to stop their current activity to play a fun “come” game with you. Throw a ball and when they are halfway there call them back to you. (Use a long leash and a harness).