Basic Gear Guide

When I’m selecting leashes I look for five main characteristics:

1. I want a loop-handle on one end. That’s an easy one because just about every leash in the world has one of those. However the loop has to be slim enough to fit on my thumb. Some leashes have great big, padded loops and these just get in the way, in my opinion.

2. I want it to be well made. I don’t have time for crap. I want my dollar to go as far as it can, and I want gear that will stand up to the wear and tear of daily use.

3. I want it streamlined. I don’t like bulky gear with hokey features that just slow things down.

4. A well made snap. Standard bolt snaps are usually preferred, but anything else has to be strong, safe and easy to manipulate.

5. I like comfort; I’m not ashamed of that.

A Note About the Handle

• We really recommend a loop handle over any other kind of handle. Based on our training system we teach dogs how to walk with a loose lead and we also teach our students how to handle a leash like a multi-tool. You'd be surprised at all the different ways you could use a standard, no-frills leash. The more add-ons there are the more of a unitasker it tends to be. These extra features usually just get in the way. We prefer a leash that can be used in a great variety of potential situations.

• For this reason, we do not recommend ski-handle leashes. This kind of leash will only be useful for keeping control of a really bananas dog, but this has to be a short term solution if you use it. If your goal is to eventu- ally get your dog to walk politely with a loose leash (and you should) then ski-handle leashes won't really be part of your long-term training plan.

• As I mentioned, nylon is technically stronger than leather; the tensile strength is way higher. Nylon also gives you the option of integrating reflective materials for nighttime which is nearly nonexistent in leather. Finally, nylon is much lighter than leather and some people prefer an ultra-lightweight leash.

• Nylon, however, does not resist wear and tear like leather does. Sharp corners, nibbles from the puppy, getting shut in car doors...nylon won’t stand up to the world like leather will. So, there are tradeoffs.

• In any event, for nylon there are countless adequate leashes out there. PetSafe’s $8.00 leash is good enough for most dogs. Bluberry Pet makes a couple of good ones too. But my favorites are...

EzyDog Soft Trainer

Sizes: Lite (dogs under 26lbs) 6’ long, 1/2” wide Standard (dogs 26lbs and over) 6’ long, 1” wide Colors: 8 options
Cost: ≈$20-$30 USD, depending on size

REVIEW: This is a great, basic leash with good functionality in the features (without overloading it). The handle has neoprene lining making it comfortable to hold in different configurations. The nylon webbing is reflective for low- ligh/nighttime, and there’s a traffic handle at the bottom. I used to be all about traffic handles but recently I realized I hardly ever actually used them! They’re good to have in a pinch for certain dogs, but if you’re going to have one it had better be low-profile so it doesn’t get in the way. This fits the bill nicely.

Finally, I know I said I didn’t like a ton of features, but there is a barrel lock accessory attachment that’s not bad for pick-up bags or a small light. This, also, is low-profile so it’s out of the way unless I want to use it (as it should be).

Nifti Safelatch

Size: 6’ long, 1” wide
Colors: 5 options
Cost: ≈$25 USD

REVIEW: OK, I know I said that a basic bolt snap is the way to go, and this technically is a bolt snap, but it’s been suped up for the 21st century, and I LOVE IT. Nifti has added three things to the bolt snap that make it better: 1) The thumb release is bigger and easier to manipulate; 2) The bolt has a recessed hole for the tip to slide into making a stronger, completed loop; 3) There’s a strong magnet inside the snap that pulls the ring from the collar or harness into the loop and keeps it there.

This is a really cool design and the snap is well made. Usually I hate gimicky stuff but this is well-designed and it works.

Basic Collar Types

• Buckle Collars use the standard prong and hole setup like a belt buckle. This is stronger than a plastic snap, but usually doesn’t size as accurately as it should.

• Snap Collars allow for more accurate sizing. Plastic snaps fail more often than buckles, but should be fine for most setups and dogs. Metal snaps are super reliable, but heavier.

• Martingale Collars are typically sold as a corrective collar, but this is neither what they were made for, nor the appropriate use for them. Their dynamic resizing was made for dogs with necks bigger than their heads, most notably sighthounds like Greyhounds and Whippets, and bully breeds. We use martingales on all of the dogs at the shelter because you can slide it on/off over the head and still have a very secure fit for walking them around the surrounding woods. In my opinion a martingale is a solid choice for any dog. If you’ve been reluctant to train on a collar because your dog bucks their head out of regular collars, this is a very reliable and safe solution.

  Once again, martingales are not corrective collars and were never meant to be. If you want to use a corrective collar, get one designed for that kind of work and do the job right; don’t half-ass it by trying to use a martingale.

Pro Tip: Fit Your Collars Correctly

In my experience, most owners have their collars way too loose. Most people feel like a properly adjusted collar looks too uncomfortable for their dog. However, a sloppy collar tends to make things more uncomfortable for your dog, and terribly inefficient. Here’s our rule of thumb:

For mid-size to large dogs, you should just be able to slide two fingers under the collar.

For small dogs, one finger should be able to slide under.

Walking Training

When we’re training a dog to walk on a loose lead, we train them on their collar in a neutral environment and we teach them not to pull on the collar. That process takes a good deal of time, though, and so we’ll need to move our dogs around the world in the meantime—to the vet, to the groomer, to training school—and in those instances you’ll put your dog on a harness and it’s ok if they pull into the harness because it won’t interfere with your work on the collar.

That being said, that’s our primary model and it works for most dogs. Some dogs, however, just cannot have a collar on at all. We had a student once with a cracked trachea and it was no collar for that pup, ever. For these dogs, a harness is a lifelong solution.

Also, for very small dogs (like toy breeds) a harness is still probably the best solution. Like we mentioned previously, this is safer for their tiny bodies than a collar when out in the world.

While there are dozens and dozens of harnesses on the market, we only recommend two basic configurations:

• Body Harnesses: These have the main attachment point on the dog’s back, usually around the shoulder area. Al- though these typically make it more comfortable to pull into the harness, they allow the greatest range of motion for the shoulders. These are the best options for athletic activities such as hiking and running, or sports like agility, flyball, or scent detection. Body harnesses are also the ONLY option for car restraint (which we’ll talk about later).

• Front-Hook or Walking Harnesses: These have the main attachment point on the chest. These discourage pulling by converting oppositional energy into rotational energy. During the training progression, a strong puller may benefit from one of these. However we really recommend that this is a temporary solution rather than a lifelong one. Long-term use can affect the gait and health of the shoulders. It can also become a dependency which we want to avoid.

Fitting

Identifying the correct size of harness is a matter of measuring your dog’s girth. That is the circumference of the chest at the widest point, usually measured just behind the “armpits.”Use a seamstress’ tape for this.

EzyDog Drive

Sizes: 3 options
Colors: black
Cost: ≈$100 USD

REVIEW: The Drive Harness is the highest rated car harness on the market today. It conforms to and has passed all relevant requirements for the fol- lowing standards: USA (FMVSS 213) Europe (ECE Regulation 16) Australia (ADR42/04).

It has a “one-time” fit. Once you get it fit correctly it’s a “set it and forget it” thing. It goes on pretty easily and has a rock-solid, magnetically aligned locking system.

Hook up is similarly simple: just feed the seat belt through both webbing handles on the top of the harness, click the buckle into the seat belt of your car and you’re set.

The only downside is that this is an expensive harness. Suggested retail is $100 USD. However, knowing how deadly a car crash can be for a dog, I’m willing to spend that much. How insignificant would 100 bucks seem if your dog died?

Sleepypod Clickit

Sizes: 4 options
Colors: 4 options
Cost: ≈$75 USD

REVIEW: Clickit is Sleepypod’s dog safety harness for the car. Using what Sleepypod calls an “Infinity Loop design,” the harness is engineered to distribute and reduce damaging forces in an accident.

This harness has been crash tested by the Center for Pet Safety, a non-profit group, and is currently their main recommendation. However, the Center for Pet Safety hasn’t done any tests since 2013 that I can find. Since then, Ezy- Dog’s Drive has surpassed this one. Although the Drive is my first choice, this is still a very good, reliable car harness.

It seems like an unimportant thing, but how you hold the food and how you deliver food can really affect the ef- ficiency of your training.

Put it in the valley between our index and middle finger, at about the first joint. Then use the end of your thumb to trap it in place; and then cup your hand as if we’re tying to hold water.

This way, when the dog tries to get the food they press their teeth against the side of your thumb and the flat of your fingers, and their nose pushes into your hand. You will have control of their head but they won’t quite be able to get the food. When you want to deliver the food simply roll your thumb out of the way and let them take it.

A common mistake is to cover the food completely with your thumb. Your dog will try to go around the edges and you’ll lose control of their head.

When kids go out for sports, we implicitly understand similar benefits: healthy exercise, developing social skills, developing motor skills, self-control, confidence, fun, and bonding.

It is my belief that we can and should to the same with our dogs. When I play with my dogs, I don’t just want it to be mindless exercise; I don’t want it to just be a time-filler. Likewise, when they choose a toy on their own for some down-time, I want there to be things available that really satisfy them emotionally and mentally.

Thus, your dog toys should have practical, developmental benefits. Just like everything else we choose for them—from our hardware to the food we feed—the toys we use (and how we use them) should have some fore- thought and planning.

The following chapter outlines a few of my favorite toys along with some beginning suggestions to get you mov- ing in the right direction!

Pro Tip: Good Toy Organization is Where it Starts

A lot of people tend to just buy their dogs whatever toys look interesting and then leave them all over the place. I’ve heard more times than I can count: “OMG she has so many toys all over the house/back yard.”

With a little more forethought and intention, we can do much, much better for our dogs (and our sanity!).

• Interactive Toys are restricted access. This means that tugs, balls, frisbees, retrieval dummies, and the like are put away when they’re not being used. You don’t want your dog destroying these things, you don’t want your dog being possessive with these toys, and you especially don’t want your dog learning how to play with these without you. What do they need you for, then? So, keep these toys put away somewhere. Take them out, play with your dog, then end the session and put them away.
  
  PRO TIP: Interactive toys, when properly used, eventually become compelling training rewards in lieu of food!
  

• Work-To-Eat Toys are also restricted access. These include Kongs, Barnacles, Wobblers, puzzle toys, and more. These are only available while they’re being used in a Work-to-Eat project. Once your dog finishes it or abandons it, pick it up and wash it.
  
  I’ve been to lots and lots of houses where there are Kongs all over the yard and living room, empty, sometimes covered in dirt, other times mostly unused, and even sometimes with funky rotting food in them. Let’s do better than this!

• Chew Toys are the only things available all of the time. These include Benebones, Nylabones, butcher bones, and any other safe toy that your dog enjoys chewing on. At any time your dog can choose a chew toy and settle down with it to self-soothe and wind down. Chewing is a passive activity that’s relaxing and emotionally satisfy- ing. Packing around chew toys can also be a behavioral pacifier, short circuiting jumping and barking for dogs that get jazzed up by people coming over.
  
  Chewing is something you can develop and cultivate. When people say “My dog isn’t really interested in chew toys,” my answer is “Then train them to be!” More often than not, the problem is connected to having too many of all kinds of toys laying around!

Remember:

• We tell our kids not to leave the sports equipment laying all over the driveway, right? So put away the inter- active toys when not in use.

• We tell our kids not to leave dirty bowls and plates laying about, right? So pick up the work-to-eat toys and wash them.

• However, coloring books can be left more-or-less in the open where kids can just grab on and occupy them- selves quietly, right? So leave the chew toys accessible 24-7-365.

PetSafe Busy Buddy Barnacles

Sizes: 3 options
Colors: 2 options
Cost: ≈$8-$15 USD

REVIEW: The Barnacle is one of my favorite hollow “Work-to-Eat”toys out there. It’s durable, and has a lot of options for how you can use it. You can stuff the insides with your dog’s meal. You can fill the grooves with a knob of something supper appetizing like wet food or peanut butter. You can even trim the little fins inside the holes (or leave them intact) to control the difficulty of the toy. Once your dog’s all done, this can go on the top rack of the dishwasher. These are much cheaper than Kongs, meaning you can have several on hand or even prepared in advance without blowing out your pet budget.

PetSafe’s Busy Buddy line also includes the Squirrel Dude which is another worthy stand in for the Kong. Kongs are great, don’t get me wrong, but they’re way overpriced and I like to have several toys on hand.

Muzzle Mat

Sizes: customizable
Colors: black
Cost: ≈$5 USD (per square)

REVIEW: This is straight up DIY, and proof that some of the best things don’t come with a picture of a dog on the packaging! At our local hardware store I just pick up a 2-ft x 3-ft Black Rectangular Indoor Anti-Fatigue Mat. The whole mat comes to about $30. It’s scored into 1-ft x 1-ft squares, and I easily cut those with a utility knife. Now, I have 6 mats I can do some forage-feeding on. These are rugged, heavy, and dishwasher safe. Just lay it down and scatter your dog’s food on it. You can even use it for wet food—just spoon it into the holes!

This article originally appeared on the Simpawtico Dog Training blog on May 15, 2014.

If you’ve spent any time around me, at my classes, or even just browsing my website you’ve probably been exposed to one of my core beliefs: “TECHNIQUE over HARDWARE.”

AS SEEN ON T.V.

A lot of folks spend a good deal of time and money hunting down bigger and better pieces of equipment to make their dogs behave. They saw a new harness in a magazine that works MIRACLES! Their friend told them about some contraption that straps to a dog that’ll turn them into a whole new pooch! A vet tech sent them to the pet store to pick up the new leash/collar/strap/cord combo thingy that’ll just do the trick!

This speaks to our pervasive “As Seen On TV” culture that all of our problems can be solved if we simply spend money on the right things. Unfortunately we don’t want to hear that we have to put work into something. We want to buy things that fix the problem for us. A special cleaner or detergent. A cool gadget. An app. Some- thing immediate. Just take my damned money so I can finally live in peace!

I’m sorry to have to tell you this: existing with another living thing is not covered in that pipe dream.

It’s just like how all of those things you wish you could change about your family or friends don’t just magically get fixed when you buy something. Your dog isn’t furniture or a kitchen appliance. It has a brain, wants, needs, and feelings.

HARDWARE IS NOT INHERENTLY BAD

Don’t get me wrong: there is a time and a place for some pieces of hardware. As much as I hate them, there are even appropriate uses of prong collars. But these are all tools to help you fix a problem, not a cure unto itself. And really that applies to any piece of hardware you get, be it a leash or even a harness.

You’ve got to learn to do it without the gadgets. Once you have solid knowledge and technique under your

belt, any of those pieces of hardware become way more effective.

Wouldn’t you expect a mechanic to know how to use her tools? Wouldn’t you want your computer repairman to know how computers work? What makes you think you’re off the hook? Shouldn’t you learn about your dog first, and then how to properly operate the tools next?

And this is where I take issue: I see well-meaning folks who love their dogs take bad info and compound it with hardware that they don’t know how to use properly.

The training collar, the shock collar’s remote, the no-pull harness, the retractable leash, even ridiculous things like cans of pennies and spray bottles (complete rub- bish, both of them)...these won’t get you where you want to be without knowing how to do it right. And as often as I harp on prong collars, my greatest gripe is that in the years I’ve been training I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve seen on one used and fit correctly on a pet dog. Even that tool would be more effective and humane if owners were better educated.

Here’s another way to look at it: you could have the greatest, most high-performance car in the world, but if you’re a crappy driver you might as well drive a Pinto.

A FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY

The problem with most of these objects is that you probably will get some improvement. Initially, you’ll see just enough of what you want so that you’ll a) keep try- ing and b) convince yourself it’s more effective than it really is. It’s like a slot machine, and we just keep pulling the lever. It’ll be just enough to hook you and you’ll use that special collar or harness forever.

Please understand, friends, that these things rarely (if ever) really fix your problem. It will just cover it up well enough for you to get by.

LEARN HOW TO DO IT FIRST, BEFORE RELYING ON GEAR

When I work with an unruly or aggressive dog, I always try to do as much as I can without the hardware. I apply technique and knowledge to come at it, not objects.

And I start establishing organic lines of communication with the dog. And I want the same for you! Your trainer’s job is to teach YOU the techniques, the timing, the motions, and the master keys like a ballet teacher or martial arts sensei. It’s a matter of the interactions between you and your dog, not as a factor of objects or things.

Spending your money on appliances and gadgets hoping that they will magically transform your dog into a good dog is ignorant and lazy. I’m sorry...you know I can’t candy-coat. No matter what, learn some technique. Find a trainer who uses positive reinforcement, who understands how dogs learn, and utilizes sound mechanics of effective technique. Find one who can coach and encourage YOU on that technique.

Then, if you REALLY need that special harness, or that prong collar you can then learn how to use it right. You’ll be able to accomplish ten times what you’d expected, and a hundred times more than what you got before!

Otherwise you’re that schmuck in the race car grinding gears in the drive thru. Don’t be that guy! We can do better!